In the heart of rural Wales, a breathtaking encounter with the Milky Way awaits. But is this celestial spectacle under threat?
I ventured into the darkness of Ceredigion, west Wales, in search of a starry spectacle. The initial darkness was deceiving, but patience revealed a stunning sight—a sky brimming with stars, stretching endlessly in every direction. Accompanied by Siân and James Harrison, passionate stargazers from Cardiff, we arrived at the secluded hamlet of Gogoyan, nestled in the picturesque Ceredigion countryside.
Our guide, Dafydd Wyn Morgan, founder of the astrotourism company Serydda, invited us to lie on a blanket and embark on a celestial journey. With a green laser, he pointed out Orion's Belt, a favorite of James due to the constant birth of stars in that region. The vastness of the universe hit home as James pondered the distance of celestial objects, millions of light-years away.
Wyn Morgan's star bathing sessions offer a unique experience, combining the observation of the night sky with storytelling about the myths and legends associated with the stars. This practice, akin to forest bathing, has gained popularity as a form of astrotourism and wellness.
But the experience goes beyond science. It's about the emotional connection and the sense of wonder it evokes. For some, it's a gateway to stargazing, igniting a passion for exploring the cosmos. Wyn Morgan's journey began in 2025, inspired by his friend and renowned astrophotographer Alyn Wallace, who passed away in 2024.
The demand for such experiences is evident, with 72% of travelers expressing interest in visiting darker sky destinations, according to a Booking.com survey. As we stood on a bridge in the Cambrian mountains, surrounded by nature's beauty, Wyn Morgan emphasized the unique sensation of breathing in the night sky, a pure and refreshing experience.
The allure of the night sky is deeply rooted in human history, as Dani Robertson, a dark skies officer for Snowdonia National Park, explains. However, light pollution poses a growing threat, with 98% of the UK population living under light-polluted skies. Wales, home to two International Dark Sky Reserve national parks, attracts visitors seeking true darkness and starry skies.
Robertson's events, including stargazing, night hikes, and meteor watch parties, offer transformative experiences. One man, celebrating his 50th birthday, was moved to tears by the sight of shooting stars, a testament to the power of these celestial encounters. Annalisa Setti, a senior lecturer in applied psychology and sustainability, highlights the positive impact of nature on our brains and bodies, reducing negative thoughts and promoting relaxation.
Yet, the night sky's allure is fragile. Light pollution, as Robertson warns, disrupts human and ecological rhythms. A simple solution lies in adopting dark-sky-friendly practices, such as using specialized bulbs and reducing unnecessary lighting.
As we stood in the mountains, the Milky Way revealed itself, a breathtaking sight that left us speechless. James's words captured the essence of the experience—a profound appreciation for the beauty, majesty, and scale of the universe. But will future generations have the same opportunity to witness this celestial wonder?